I have been using my Yashicamat 124G quite a bit this year as it is such an easy medium format camera to use and gives great results but the last 3 rolls that I have shot I have noticed a bit of a problem.
After loading and winding on to frame one then making the first shot the camera will not wind on.
The only way I have since found to carry on shooting with the roll is to fire the shutter again.
When this happened with the first two rolls I ended up with a double exposure as I was unsure whether or not the camera had actually made an exposure … this roll features such an image.
Obviously after 2 rolls having this problem when it happened on the third occasion I placed my hand over the taking lens and fired the shutter which saved the first frame and allowed me to wind to the second frame.
The strange thing with this roll is not only was the first frame a double exposure it also overlapped as you can see in the second image, it has only done this once so I am at a loss to what is going on.
I have shot loads of rolls with this great camera over the years with no problems whatsoever so if anyone out there has any ideas please let me know please.
So here are a few of better images … it was a really overcast drab day (which is why I used Portra 800) which really did wonders with the greens.
Even though the film expired 8 years ago I still shot it at box speed and processed using the Tetenal C41 kit.
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I have shot motion picture stock quite a bit but have always developed it in C41 chemistry which is essentially cross processing as it is meant to be processed in ECN2.
I have sent 1 roll to a lab to be processed correctly and really loved the colours so when Analogue Wonderland announced that they were going to sell ECN2 chemistry I jumped at the chance to give it a try.
The kit was by a new company to me called QWD .. Quiet We’re Dreaming who I believe are an American company that are distributing the kits via Analogue Wonderland here in the UK.
The kit is all powder based (sorry no images as I mixed the chemistry and disposed of the bags before writing this blog post).
The supplied instructions are extremely easy to follow even if you are new to developing your own film.
Before you start the things that you need is 5 bottles that hold 1 litre of fluid for the chemistry and preferably a Sous Vide heater with which to keep the temperature stable.
For the Stop Bath part that is in the instructions I just used standard ilford Stop that I use for B&W developing and not the White Vinegar mix.
The best thing about this kit is that the only critical process is the actual developer which has to be at 41 degrees C while all the other processes can be done with a larger tolerance (see the card number 5) which makes the whole process so much easier.
I filled my container with hot water from the tap which ended up about 43 degrees C and I switched on the heater and put all the chemicals in jugs and placed into the water to heat up while I went and loaded the film into the Dev tank.
The temp then cools down to 41 Degrees and the Sous Vide maintains it for me.
By this time all the chems are about 25 degrees so I boil the kettle and pour it into another container and place the developer jug in it to get up to 41 degrees C.
By the time the developer has reached 41 degrees the other chems are about 34 degrees in the big container which is well within the tolerances so I take them out of the water and proceed to follow the instruction with the Pre Bath first then all the steps in the sequence on card 5.
While developing after each inversion cycle I put the tank back into the 41 degree C water to keep it at the same temperature for the 3 minutes.
I don’t bother with the other baths as the temperature is within the tolerance.
My rinsing is done with filtered water that I store in 1 litre bottles and are warmed up a bit in another plastic container.
I have hard water here so I don’t like rinsing with straight tap water so I use a standard Brita water filter jug to fill a few bottles ready for when I develop.
Once done which is pretty quick all things considered I take the film out of the dev tank and put it in the container with the Sous Vide (now switched off) and a few drops of Photo Flo and gently wipe all over the film with my fingers to remove all the traces of any Remjet that may still remain.
On my 1st roll there was a little bit of Remjet on a few frames which I missed so on the 2nd and 3rd rolls I spent a bit of time on this final step before hanging up to dry.
As I said earlier this whole process is very easy and the results that I got were very pleasing.
According to everything I have read you can get at least 16 rolls out of this and unlike C41 you don’t have to extend the times the more film that you develop either.
I shot Fuji Reala 500D, Kodak Vision 3 50D and Kodak Vision 3 250D and here is a few similar images that you can compare colourwise.
As you can see the Fuji Reala is a bit cooler than both the Kodak stocks.
The 3 rolls were all shot on different days but the lighting was very similar being very overcast an a bit wet.
Obviously this is not a scientific test just me shooting the 3 daylight motion picture stocks that I have just as a test for myself so don’t take these images as a final definitive look as it depends on the lighting.
I have done other blog posts where I shot in good light and developed in C41 if you are interested to compare.
For the first time in a while we had a lovely sunny Saturday the other week so I wanted to shoot colour on one of my mountain hikes.
I considered shooting some slide as I have quite a few rolls of expired film in my fridge as well as a couple of rolls of new Kodak Ektachrome but as I was going through my film stash I came across a roll of Ektar that expired back in 2015.
I am pretty sure that I bought it new and it has been lost in my fridge since then.
I don’t really shoot Ektar that often, in fact I probably have only shot 5 or 6 rolls in the past so I decided to use that for a change.
I do like how Ektar looks when I have used it and also there are loads of gorgeous images on the internet so instead of developing it myself I sent it to the awesome filmdev to get the scans right rather than me having to mess around trying to get the “Ektar Look”.
I shot the roll with my Nikon FE2 and the Nikkor 50mm f1.8 pancake lens that looks and works great with the FE2.
So here is the whole roll including the 1st test shot while loading the film (not very good but as it’s the whole roll I left it in) also the last 2 frames were shot indoors just to finish the roll.
I tried to look for subjects that would lend themselves to the Ektar look namely punchy Reds & Greens.
At the time of writing this blog Analogue Wonderland are running a competition to shoot Ektar along with a super discount on purchasing 120 and 35mm Ektar if anyone wants to take a look (I am not affiliated to them I just love the service they supply) just click the link to visit the website for details.
Comments most welcome, click on an image to view larger
All images on my blog are available as prints just drop me an email